WEEK 6 Research Initiative

 WEEKLY SUMMARY (Silk, Linen) 

In this week's research initiative I decided to investigate the traditional Chineses ornamental Nanjing Yunjin Silk brocade as well as learning the intricacies of linen production from the natural fibers of flax, that has been passed down from generations in East Donagel of Northern Ireland. 

Source:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeSwmty8kno

In its beginning origins, the silk brocade comes from its home in Nanjing China, the capital city of the eastern Jiangsu province just west of Shanghai. This city is centuries old, tracing its roots back to the Ming Dynasty which was established around 1368 AD. From its infant stages of its existence in the Ming dynasty, Nanjing China became known for its technological and cultural products produced within its borders ranging from artworks, to crafted pottery, to silk garments and tapestries. This silk that was present in their region was utilized to create the renown Nanjing Yunjin Silk brocade that is still highly sought after to this day. It passed as a family tradition through different generations till it became a regionally manufactured product under the creator Liu Junzheng of the Yunjin industry. The fabrics begin their stage of creation from the installation of the silk naturally harvested from the surrounding region and brought in for weaving. The silk is then stylized by the artisans to create signature floral patterns across the fabric. The stands are then separated on a loom and use a combined practice of cross-stitching and weaving to give the brocade its texture and pattern designs.

Each pattern takes an extensive period of time to create since they are handcrafted. Maticulaent patience is required for the creation of these ornate patterns as each fabric utilizes 60 to 120 different colored strands to create its overall finished look. Depending on the length of the desired fabric, finishing the product could take as long as four years to complete. 

The pattern types that rang across these fabrics consist of dragons, peacocks, and tigers, symbolizing different royal family lines and attributes that signify the distinct nature of the Nanjing Yunjin silk brocade. In their historical era, these pieces would be created and hung in palaces and royal halls to signify wealth, power, and prestige of their family name. Yet even since practices have changed, the continued heritage of its symbolic nature has not. 

Source:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFuj7sXVnIU

The production of European Linens is an age-old skill that has been honed since the middle ages. The traditional linens of that time were known to be created and traded by merchants from the island of Ireland that lies just west of the island of England. Over the many years of its production, techniques and practices have been passed down from generation to generation  to establish what they have today. When understanding the heritage of the linen production of northern Ireland, it is important to note that it is a six step process. The first two steps have to do with the sowing and growing of the indigenous flax seeds that grow wild in their region. Once the flax plants have grown for the duration of at least 3 months, it is ready to be harvested and soaked for the remaining two weeks. When the process is finished, the flax is spread, dried, and bundled into bails called stooks where they are then prepped and transported to the mill. 

When the flax is ready the fiber is broken down through a process called “stutching”, where it is beaten and tenderized. From there it is crimped, giving the material its fabric like state making it ready to be spun into yarns creating authentic Irish linen.