Codes and Classifications...

Delia Tacheny
INT 323 - Textiles, Materials, and Sourcing

Weekly Summary

As we begin to deep dive into the Textiles world, this week we studied topics such as "Fabric Performance and Evalutation," "Fabric and Sustainability," and we began to touch on "Fiber Classification and Properties."

First of all, we talked about the difference between a standard versus a code, as well as various certifications and rating that products such as textiles can receive. However, in reality, there are few standards and codes that directly apply to fabrics. Interestingly, when it comes to projects such as Nursing Homes and Airports, organizations such as the Social Security Administration (SSA) and the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) are the ones who regulate interior specifications. In general, when it comes to building codes, the International Code Council (ICC) and international Building Council (IBC) are the most standardized. Additionally, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) is relevant to Interior Designers as it creates codes and standards related to fire safety.

When it comes to sustainability and environmental awareness, the ultimate goal is a closed-loop system in which all materials are reclaimed/ reutilized (Cradle-to-Cradle); however, this is extremely difficult to achieve. Nevertheless, Interior Designers can pay attention to a few things for environmental, social, and economical sustainability: awareness of the finishes and aftertreatments of products; protection of indoor air quality; and recyclability of textile materials. There are a multitude of organizations seeking to promote and certify sustainable products, construction, and manufacturing. 

Last, we began to talk about the more scientific side of fibers. There are natural fibers -- gained from plants, animals, and minerals; and there are manufactured fibers -- made from chemical compounds. Both have their positives and negatives, and within each category, there are a variety of fiber types, each with its own classification. Natural fibers typically come as staple fibers (shorter) except for silk which is the only natural filament fiber (long and continuous); manufactured fibers typically come as filament fibers and can always be cut shorter. 

You can identify different fibers through testing, such as the burn test. When analyzing fibers, you can investigate their composition, molecular structure, and external physical features (cross-sectional shape, surface texture, longitudinal configuration, length, and diameter). The primary aesthetic properties of fabric include its luster, hand, and drape. There are also many appearance retention properties such as abrasion resistance, flexibility, tenacity, etc.; Comfort properties including absorbency, heat conductivity, covering power, density/ specific gravity; and finally, health, safety, and protection properties such as chemical resistance, flammability, thermoplasticity, heat susceptibility, and electrical conductivity.

Overall, it was a very technical week engaging in topics from codes to chemical properties. Nevertheless, it opened my eyes up to appreciate people in a variety of industries relating to textiles and their production. 

One Step Further

This week, I decided to look a little further into the complete manufacturing process of fiber to fabric, specifically wool: 

First, the sheep are sheered, and the wool fibers are sorted based on certain quality properties such as length, color, and fineness. Then it is a washed with a detergent before being delivered to the factory in compressed bails. 

The wool goes through metal tooth-rollers which comb out and separate the fibers. Then the wool is delivered to the blending room in which air currents mix different grades of fibers and/or additional fibers such as polyester to create a blend. 

Next, the blend goes through a carding machine in which the fibers are untangled and made parallel. The produced web (a thin flat sheet of wool) is then divided into thinner strips which are then twirled into robins. Finally, these robins are tightly spun which adds strength to the yarn and can then be woven into fabric.

YouTube. (2018). How It’s Made Wool. YouTube. Retrieved September 3, 2023, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPrGGv7pHXE&t=294s.