Week 4 Fabric Dyes & Finishes

 WEEKLY SUMMARY 

In this week's readings and learnings, we went through different types of knitting and stitching techniques as well as different kinds of processes of dying methods and the colorants that go into making finished products ready for the consumer and end user.

As we looked deeper to understand the intricacies of the woven and knitted fabrics and how they differ from one another. When it comes to woven fabrics, they use a process that incorporates weaving, filling and wrapping parts, creating a distinct and unique texture and appearance. Knitted fabrics, on the other hand, lack these filling and wrapping features and alternatively incorporate a series of courses and wale components. These wales perfectly line the rows and courses formed at an angle to create its distinct features. When understanding the differences of wrap knitting, we learned that it  follows a linear route, interlooping materials with precision, whereas weft knitting employs looping methods going horizontally, generating patterns at an angle. In addition, chapter 8 introduces us to the distinct characteristics of tricot materials and jersey stitch. Tricot materials have herringbone-like wales on one side and a crosswise rib effect on the other, whereas jersey stitch has herringbone-like wales on one side and characteristic crescent-shaped loops on the other. These subtle differences in fabric construction contribute to a plethora of alternatives.

When yarns are finished in their different material make ups and manufacturing processes they are then incorporated into dyes and dye solutions. When it comes down to it there are three main ways fabrics are colored using dyes. The first and most expensive way is through yarn dying. This incorporates the finished yarns each dyed using different colors, in order to create very intricate and ornate patterns and designs. The second is through the process of piece dying. Piece dying is through the incorporation of knitting or weaving an entire fabric as one finished piece and then utilizing a dye solution to give it its lasting color. This process is much cheaper than yarn dying and is used as an alternative to save money for bigger corporations. The third is solution dying which is when color is added to a polymer solution before it is extruded into fibers. This dyeing process begins at the very beginning of the manufacturing process and is widely used as an alternative to piece dying or yarn dying for its own unique benefits.

In regards to color of dyes and dyed fabrics it is also important in our learning to understand that the color of objects all depends on the perceived color which is determined on how light reflects off of each object. Light refracts off of different pigments reflecting one wavelength while absorbing the rest. This results in us seeing an object as blue, green, or purple, while perceived color is based off of the surrounding lighting, whether natural or artificial, that affects the object's true color to be perceived as something slightly or completely different. 

ONE STEP FURTHER 

Taking it one step further, when understanding the equipment that imparts color. One of the most common machines used for dying is a fiber dyeing machine which immerses textile fibers such as cotton, wool, or synthetic materials in a dye solution bath. The procedure kicks off as fibers are placed into the machine, where they are carefully arranged and prepared for the dyeing process. Once inside, the machine maintains a consistent distribution of dye by circulating hot water and the dye solution. Mechanisms like paddles or jets help ensure the dye thoroughly penetrates the fibers. Control over temperature and timing is critical to achieving the desired color durability and hue. After dyeing, the machine typically incorporates rinsing and finishing steps to eliminate any surplus dye and enhance the overall look and texture of the dyed fibers.

SOURCING 

Dying Process:

https://seamapparel.com/blog/fabric-dyeing-process/

Color Perception: 

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK544355/

Dying Manufacturing: 

https://textilelearner.net/different-types-of-textile-dyeing-machines/